Friday, December 25, 2009

Jaws action!

Got up at 4.30 am and got my stuff together. All batteries charged check, spare batteries check, memory cards emptied check. It's not a very long drive to Haiku from Paia, just a couple of miles, but this time very exciting. As I got off Hana Hwy and began my descent through what used to be pineapple fields I stopped and turned my engine off to hear the waves breaking in the distance, like thunder. By the way, the pineapple industry on Maui recently went out of business, just the other day to be exact. I really hope someone can and will try to start it up again. There's nothing like Maui Gold!
Sunrise was still half an hour away when I had made my way down the dirt road and reached the parking. The next couple of hours I spend there, both at the lookout and down at the shoreline was just incredible. The surfers that charge on these waves deserve the deepest admiration and respect. Marcio Freire even paddled out from a pretty heavy shore break.
There were lost boards, broken boards, but as far as I know no injuries or damaged jetskis. A great Christmas Day!
Here are some pictures from today's action. Unfortunately difficult to see who's riding, at least for me. If you know, please let me know.
Aloha!
Amazing surfing today.
Marcio Freire before his paddle out.
Clean, huge wave.
More scenic view of the break Jaws.

1 comment: